May 12, 2007

May 11th & May 12th

May 11th Evening

Welcome To Swaziland – Where Your Phone Card Doesn’t Work

So we left Ermelo today and piled into two cars with all of us and the luggage for the trek to Swaziland. On the way we crossed the Continental Divide and saw a lot of land that looked more like New England with the trees than Africa. We were brought to the Swazi border and passed off to two Rotarians. After going through the SA customs and the drive check and then the Swazi customs and drive check – we final made it into the country. Meesh and I noticed a bunch of school girls staring at me in the front of the car and waving and OB (the Rotarian we were traveling with) told us that I probably look like one of their blond dolls that they’ve never seen in person before. I’m hoping it’s a Barbie doll ;)

We went to the Rotary meeting – which is at a very nice hotel – and I almost passed out when I hooked my computer to the projector and my laptop screen went black. No whoops I went into sleep mode – flat out nothing going on. The team leader finally stopped chatting and saw the despair on my face and I tried to get things going. I finally got the computer back up after a few “shut downs” (i.e. popping the battery out) and I told her we were winging it today and not using my computer. Think that might have to be the game plan moving forward.

It was a very interesting Rotary meeting – there are no women in the club and they really aren’t encouraged to join. And yet the men know the club is really imbalanced and reference it through out most the meeting. We did our presentations and there were no questions. Alrighty…

Following that we went to the Emergency Response Council on HIV/AIDS. 40% of Swazis have HIV/AIDS. While we were walking around the Mall earlier Meesh pointed this fact out. 40% - that’s incredible. The age group with the highest rate of HIV/AIDS is the 25-29 year olds. The programs the council is doing are interesting – a combination of education, grass roots, etc. It’s an interesting mix of messages of abstinence, safe sex, committed partners etc. The topic of sex is a much more casual conversation in this country and South Africa than it is in the US. The posters in the community show young kids playing sports or in school with the message of “I am important – sex can wait” or “I have a dream – sex can wait”. I can’t see any of those posters flying well in the US…

Following the visit my host, Pastor Ken, picked me up and we went to his house. I met his wife Brenda who is a nurse. Both lovely people and they live in an amazing house with a beautiful pool in the back – too bad it’s chilly out. We went out for a bite to eat and got a bunch of “Hello Pastor Ken” at the restaurant. We just got home and I tried to call Eric but learned that a phone card bought in South Africa doesn’t work in Swaziland – and the distance in driving for South Africa to Swazi is about the same as from Virginia to Maryland.

May 12th

Monkey Love

4:45 am wake up call. If I could find the rooster that woke me up at 4:45 am we’d be having rooster for dinner tonight. ;)

So Pastor Ken and I started out for the Candle Factory this morning. True to my sense of timing and Pastor Ken’s we were there at 9:30 am. Everyone else was late – on Swazi time. The Candle Factory was a candle factory but everything was too heavy to even think about buying and outing in my suitcase. I saw these wooden giraffes that were about my size that I felt in love with – but I’m pretty sure that South African Air would have made me buy an extra seat to bring it home – so I figured the $1,350 plane ticket would set me back a little to much.

Following – we went to the Swazi Cultural Village where we were told the history of Swaziland in dance and song. It was very beautiful and of course they pulled a few of us up to dance one of the dances – very much like country line dancing so once I got the moves down this white girl could dance. While at the village we took a tour of the native houses and ran into some very close contact with monkeys. They got near someone’s lunch kettle and tossed the tops off to get the food. After watching the monkeys eat, most everyone, except me, was paying attention to the tour guide. Me, I was still watching the monkeys, and let me tell you I saw some monkey love ;) Apparently after the male broke into the pot and fed his loved one he decided he wanted some lovin’ as well. So they went at it. I felt like I was watching the National Geographic special on mating. I tried to tell the other girls what was going on but I was almost in tears I was laughing too hard.

After witnessing the monkey love, we went to lunch and then went to the glass blowing factory. Man, it was hot. There were so many beautiful pieces, but again there’s only so much room in my suitcase and I know they’d never make it home in one piece.

May 11, 2007

Drink, Drink, Drink, Eat, Eat, Eat


After a pre dinner drink, home made pasta, salad, meat and drinks, drinks, drinks after dinner. Luigi has 2 shot glasses in front o me at one point in addition to my wine. And he didn't quite understand why I was finished. Meesh was a good sport and took one of my shots of Armulo (a South African cream liquor).

Sasol


We weren't allowed to bring cameras into the grounds of Sasol but this is a picture from afar. It doesn't even begin to convey the size and power of the plant. Amazing...

Ermelo Day Care for the Disabled Children


This is one of the children in the day care center. He couldn't talk or walk but he had a great big smile for us the whole time we were there...

Ermelo K9 Dog


Not your average neighboorhood dog. I think he jumped to the top of his cage trying to get out when I was out there....

May 9th, 10th & Early 11th

May 9th

May I See Your License & Registration Please

So Andre (the GSE Chair in South Africa) got all of us and our luggage in the combie and the trailer and off we were to Ermelo – which is about 1.5 hours from Middleburg (where we were). We were about 1 block from his office and we got pulled over by the traffic police. In South Africa – there are police, who handle crime, etc and traffic police, who pull you over for whatever they want. Both are rather crooked. So he check Andre’s drivers license and told us the tags on the trailer were expired. However they were within the 21 day grace period – we’re convinced he just wanted to pull over a van with 5 women in it.

We were swapped off at Andre’s Law Office and off we went for a 30 minute drive to Ermelo. Once we arrived, I was off with Jaco, who owned a marketing company in Ermelo. We have similar companies in the US – he compiles a business directory and sells adds to cover the costs and make money. Very nice but like a typical non planning male he looked at me and said “What do you want to do today?” Fair enough though – I don’t think he knew I was going with him until right before we left. So we went for lunch, then to his office to hop on the Web and then to the Rotary Club for a beer – it was 1 pm but it was happy hour somewhere. Then Rina, Jaco’s girlfriend, came to the club to rescue me and take me shopping and around the town. I saw the schools, the rec fields, the pools, etc. From what I could gather there are no gyms, YMCA’s and the rec fields are not like our community. It’s just a sports field. We then went to the K9 Police Station in Ermelo – where Rina’s sister works. I got a tour of the station, the “rec” room with a bar and then we went out back to meet the dogs. Certainly not your friendly neighborhood dog- scared the beegeezes out of me.

We sat on the couch watching really bad, old soap operas and then went to a Rotary Dinner, a combination of two clubs, one is the lunch time club and the other is the “night club” as we all called it. Between the two clubs there might be twenty members total. The Rotarians were all great and friendly but I’m learning quickly that they all want you to drink and to eat….

So to date – and it’s only been 4 days, I’ve had dried meat (beef jerkey) but not sure what animal, pap and sour milk, snoke (fish), Chinese fruit – which is like a dried fruit that goes from sweet to sour to salty (yuck) and many other unidentifiable items… And I have many more days and foods to go.

I’m also learning that everyone here has “domestic help” – either on a daily basis or 2-3 times a week. Tomorrow I’m to leave a pile of dirty clothes on the arm chair and the domestic help will wash, dry and press it. I could get used to this ;). It’s also interesting that the place I’m staying is the school dormitory for the teachers. Rena is a teacher and so their apartment is on the school grounds and is basically back to dorm living – with a kitchen and private bathroom. Rena pointed out that if I heard any strange noise past the pad locked door in my bedroom that it’s only the school boys – as my door lines up with their dorm. Very interesting. Kat – maybe you could get DCPS to do that for the teachers ;0

May 10th

Good Clean Fun

So one of the interesting discoveries in Ermelo is the showers in the houses. The tubs are about as big as your hips and there is now shower curtain or nozzle in the wall. There is just a hose with a spicket type thing at the end. So at first I was all crunched up trying to shower without spraying the whole bathroom down with the spicket, then I was trying to wash my hair upside down, then I finally found a way that worked – somewhat and showered with only getting half the bathroom wet. I was happy to find out that everyone had this issue this morning. What a chore…

So after getting the whole shower thing down I came out and the maid was there. She had made my bed, straightened my stuff and was looking for my laundry. I could completely get used to this.

Following a drive around town to the wrong location for the team meeting, we finally all met up at the gas station and headed off to a day care facility for disabled kids in Ermelo. The government and people in South Africa really don’t support the disabled – especially if they’re white. So this woman opened a center in her home. She currently has 12 children for day care – including her son. The children had a range of disabilities and abilities. One of the children was 25 years old but had the mentality of a 4 year old. One of the girls was 22 and had a mild disability and was fluent is 3 languages. Before we left, we asked the woman what her wish list was and out came a huge, lofty list of a new center, horses, a bus, etc. I give her credit, in the non profit world if you don’t dream big and ask big – you usually have no chance of getting it.


Following that, we went back to the gas station and met with Richard, one of the Rotarians sons (who just left a job with a big PRAd agency Olgivy after getting burnt out). We split up into 2 cars and headed to Secunda where Sasol is. Sasol is an integrated oil and gas company with substantial chemical interests. Talk about interesting. I just watched a movie before I came to South Africa called “To Catch A Fire” which was about South Africa and the ANC a very big period of unrest around the area of Sasol (as well as the rest of the country). This coal plant was the biggest thing I’ve ever seen – it’s bigger than some communities I know – about 18,000 employees and almost that much in visitors a day. They take coal and turn it into just about everything power, chemical, etc related (no diamonds though). We weren’t allowed out of the car as we drove by but we got a VIP tour of the place from the cooling towers, to the processing plants, to the transport pipes. The amount of machinery, people, power, water, coordination, etc that it takes to run Sasol is amazing. And they have an extensive community outreach program, ranging from sponsoring plays, to building community centers, to giving to non profits.

On the way from Secunda back to Ermelo there was a fire on the felt (field) and interestingly enough fires down here just burn. It was insane to drive by these burning fields and just watch it burn. From what I’ve been told all the civil services are so under funded and underpaid most of the fire equipment doesn’t work and the police are crooked.

Are returning to Ermelo we went to Luigi’s for dinner and I swear to you – they are trying to make us eat and drink everything in sight. We had a lovely dinner but not without drinks before, during and after. At one point Luigi kept pouring drinks and passing them to me (he doesn’t take no for an answer) – Armulo (which is a SA specialty and is like our Baileys) and Amaretto were the after dinner drinks tonight. Rina and I started to try and get out of there around 9:30 pm – we finally made it at 11 pm. The men had to be men and started goofing around trying to fox the dvd player and cable.

Now I’m used to long days but every one seems like a 7 am to 11 pm day. There is so much going on by the time we get to the afternoon the morning feels like it was weeks ago. Tomorrow is the 6th day and it feels like we’re been here for weeks – not in a bad way though.

May 11th

Friday Morning Ishhhh! (wow)!

A few random thoughts:

- I think I actually managed to shower without soaking the bathroom
- I only have a few pair of pants and one pair almost got left on Ermelo because the maid though they were someone else’s
- There are no trash cans in the house except the kitchen
- No one really has tissues laying around the house
- Living back in the “dorm” setting isn’t fun when the school wake up bell rings at 6:30 am and 6:45 am.
- It doesn’t seem like anyone “works out” down here.
- Everyone thinks you should drink and eat a lot and wonder what’s wrong with you if you don’t. - People in Ermelo thought all American were fat and that we were always eating sweets.
- Rumor has it – the folks in Ermelo think we’re going to be bored in Swaziland.
- Rumor has it – we might meet the King while we’re there.
- Rumor has it – all or nothing could be true.

May 9, 2007

Something From Nothing

Me and Sara eating the pap and sour milk...


The team with Sara and her staff outside the shop...

Mhulzi


A street in the township...

Mhulzzi


Another shack without a house...

Mhulzi


This is one of the houses with a "shack" still in the yard.

May 8th

Yankees in the “Combie”

I’ve only been in South Africa for a few days but I’ve been waiting for the point that I actually feel that I’m in a county other than my own. Up until this morning we’ve been with people and in places that resemble home. We popped over to Andre’s law office this morning to successfully (and unsuccessfully) check and send email. After that he took us for a drive through Mhluzi – don’t worry if you can’t pronounced it – I’m still working on it after two days. Interestingly enough this is a town where the lower, lower middle class meets the poor. There are a series of nice houses with gates – that have been converted from the old shacks (remember the metal shed you used to buy from Sears for back yard storage?). A lot of the people who have the house do because they were offered an opportunity to buy the land from the government and had the ability to purchase the land and build. On the land with these nice houses, are still some of the metal shacks – on the side or in the back. South Africans are very big believers that you take care of extended family at all costs. So – if you don’t have room for your mother-in-law in the main house – you build he a little house out back.

Yet – the concept of charity is foreign to them. For example, not many of the black or colored people belong to an organization like Rotary. They don’t believe in the concept of giving money or charity to those who aren’t your own. Now that’s a huge generalization but it’s pretty accurate for some of the areas. I can’t imagine how a YMCA would do in such an area…

We also drove down the street and saw the Township – this is where families are in waiting for housing and live in the shacks. It was amazing to drive buy and see these places in such state of disrepair. One of the houses had a broken down VW Beetle in the yard and was using it as a planter.

As we drove – of course – we were taking pictures out the window of the “Combie” as John (one of the host parents) and others call it (some of our South African host friends have been calling us northerners Yankees). The men watching us just gave stares, the women waved and smiles after we did so and one of the children on his way home from school asked us if he could hop in the tour bus. The children in South Africa (or at least in this area) don’t wear shoes to school - only in the coldest months. So as we were driving through some of the poorest areas – children are walking through fields littered with garbage with no shoes. Now – I know that might be the least of their worries (with food probably being the first) – but I just couldn’t help think about all the diseases they could pick up from doing that. In the wealthier areas - we saw all the kids in some areas playing soccer with no shoes.

After the tour of Mhluzi and the Township – we went to Something From Nothing. This is a business in the Township owned by a woman named Sara. I’ve actually seen her freature on one of the travel channels or Discovery Channels. Quite a few years ago Sara worked for a NGO (a private non-profit) and they fired everyone without a severance package (new government, new people to decide what organizations to support). She gathered others from the community and focused and the waste that was put out to trash. She started a small shop – making arts and crafts out of wastes – plastic bags into beautiful rugs, beer/soda bottles into wine glasses, metal in jewelry. It really is amazing to see what she has done. After years of hard work – and success she branched out her business to include catering (no Dad the food I ate today for lunch was not recycled). We did a bit of shopping in her shop – and the had a traditional South Africa meal – and we ate the traditionally way – with our hands. One of the “snacks” before the meal was chicken feet. I couldn’t get over the little claws staring me in the face so I stuck to the pap (like a stiff grits made of maize), meat and veggies. Desert was pap with sour milk – which happened to be pink. Which you mix and eat with your fingers – like eating rice pudding without a spoon. I’ll post a photo – you can tell from my expression whether I liked it or not.

Following our visit with Sara we went to Botshabelo – a cultural center. We saw some old huts, some women in traditional African dress making beads and walked around a bit. The land was beautiful and we got some fun things at the shop. The woman ringing us out was besides herself at the sales she was making – I thought she was going to fall over. And in the end – I only spend $300 rand – which is about $50.

We then came back to John and Wendy’s house (my first host Rotarians) and they had planned a dinner for all of us with other host families. One thing that is quite different is that meals here are much longer. Wine, beer, etc is enjoyed before dinner and everything is much more social. Not like how we run through meal to get to the next thing on our list.

Did I mention it’s cold here! Beautiful days but it almost feels like winter at night. And the houses here really aren’t set up for heat like we are….

May 8, 2007

E-mail Note

E-mail down here is a bit tourtured - I can sometimes get in and sometimes write back but only after about 50 tries. So keep writing ;) but if I don't wrtie back right away don't worry....

The First Few Days


Our team getting ready for a tour of the Copper Factory...

The First Few Days


Jimmy's Old Town Tavern shirt and me in the "felt" (the wild)...

The First Few Days


One of the monkeys we're convinced tried to break into our lodge during the night...

The First Few Days



Morning hike at the lodge...

The First Few Days


The "dinner set up" and Edie the first night we arrived at Olifants




May 7, 2007

The First Few Days

May 4-5th

Beer, Benedryl and an Eye Mask….

The great thing about South African Air is there are a gazillion movies to choose from to watch during the flight – the bad thing is there are so many it’s easier to stay up for the all the movies than it is to sleep. The food in economy was great, the sleeping aspects not so much. So after trying a beer with dinner….a sleep mask and pillow….one benedryl…a few hours later I decided two benedryl would be so much better. Had a great sleep for a few hours. We made it through customs and immigrations with no issues – except a suspicious bag without an owner in line that would have probably shut a US airport down.

We walked out of the baggage and immigrations claim area and we were met by quite a few Rotarians – including the District Governor and his wife – who were both lovely. Anoton and John were the two in charge of us women and lead us to the car. We hiked to the parking garage with all of our luggage and the porter couldn’t figure out why any of us women weren’t answering his questions – he was talking in Afrikaan – which of course none of us speak. We packed the luggage into the trailer behind the VW van we were riding in and got on the road for a two and a half hour ride to Olifants – a “lodge” near Kruger National Park. We were doing pretty well on the road until we got off the main highway – then the seats of the car became like little vibrating massage chairs. The suspension and shocks in the car were shot and we could tell why – because of the roads. Right before we got to check in – we almost ran into a Zebra hanging in the middle of the road – just minding his own business.

We got situated in out little lodge that all 5 of us are in and went for dinner. We assumed we were eating in the main room with everyone else and then we were lead out to the back porch which was set for dinner and two great bon fires – beautiful location and great food – we had a South African BBQ. At about 8 pm I thought it was near 11 pm and figured that was a good hint that it was time to go to sleep….

May 6th

Oh My God – There’s A Monkey In The House

Well for some reason I thought it was time to get up at 3 am this morning. Makes sense though – we went to bed at 9 pm – which was 3pm US time so at 3 am my body thought it was time to get it. I feel like my mom ;) We got up and went for a walk around 7:30 – not a heck of a lot to see at the lodge but pretty landscape (no animals). We went for breakfast and bumped into a bunch of monkeys – got a lot of great photos. After breakfast we were in the main lodge and all of a sudden we heard some loud noises and saw a few tails – the monkeys had gotten into the lodge. After breakfast we met Corra, who works at the lodge, who volunteered to get the van and take us to the other side of the lodge property and then to the mall. On the way we picked up her son and then drove by and through the mining plant and property. The coals mines in this area have whole communities built around them for the workers. Most of them were off today playing futbol in the fields.

At the mall, Meesh and I were looking at diamond bracelets. We were all excited about the deal for a 4.5 carot bracelet for $500 until the shop realized that they were giving us the wrong price and that it was $5,000 not $500 (the difference between $4,500 rand and $45,000 rand). We left the shop quite quickly….

So – after dinner I decide to try my luck and get on the Internet. The only place to do so was to displace the front desk person at the lodge and sit at his computer – he didn’t seem to mind the company. I tried to get to my blog site and every time I went to log in the computer booted me off – did I mention it was the slowest dial up I’ve ever experienced? It puts the first dial ups in the US to shame. While I was checking e-mail Corra came into the front desk area and told the guy that the security guard currently working was never allowed to work again – he was sleeping at the front gate. And then she looked to me and asked me if I was ok to get back to the lodge. Seriously – it was a very short walk – I could just about see both places from each other. I got off e-mail and the guy at the front desk asked me about 10 times if I was ok walking back – I really wanted to ask him if there was a reason why I shouldn’t be but didn’t want to know the answer. It was a very fast run back to my lodge….

May 7th

Beauty and Fire

Alright Emily – points to you. I blew up my hairdryer this morning. I’m going to have a great month of really bad hair. And – the Radio Shack “Mr. Know It All” guy is going down when I get home. He sold me the wrong adaptor – it doesn’t fit. He was so uppity uppity when he sold it to me about how many he sells and how well they work – in Africa as well. Grrr….

Copper and Dust

So we took a tour of a Copper Foundry – ask any of us if we know anything about what we saw and we’ll all say no. There was a whole lot of metal, a whole lot of heat and a whole lot of dirt and dust. I did get to see copper poured and interestingly enough – the consistency is more thinner than water – who would have thought.

April 23, 2007

US District Conference


Friday night out for a few drinks with both teams.

Our team (in uniform) after we made it through the presentation at the conference - with a few power point difficulties I must add.




April 23rd - the SA team waiting in the lobby of the hotel to head out for coffee...

April 16, 2007

South African & Virginian Team


A few members from our team had a chance to meet the South African team at an Easter "Pot Luck" in Falls Church.



Left to right: Edie (US), Alson (SA), Sharon (Swa), Anya (SA), Me, Eugene (SA), Shaklain (SA), Meesh (US). Missing: Lois (US), Jessica (US).